Friday 8 April 2011

Who watches the watchmakers? (A: Me)

Last week my watch broke. Isn’t my life so full of drama and excitement? So after searching on Google maps for a nearby watchmaker I left work a little early and headed there. What I didn’t know, however, was that the shop of Nagano Tokeiten was actually a time machine. It took me back to a magical land where sunglasses were circular, Zippo lighters were ubiquitous and everything and I mean everything was beige. Yes, I had arrived in the 1970s.

As I walked in the door, the owner span around in his chair, burping out a greeting. “Irashaimasssurrgh.” He got halfway through his first word before falling face first into a display cabinet of vintage cigarettes. The man was drunk, very drunk. There was half a bottle of whiskey on the counter and his ashtray was piled high with a veritable mountain of ash and butts and all this before 2pm. To be honest I was starting to doubt whether this man was even capable of replacing the battery in my watch without turning it into a piece of modern art.

Nevertheless, I pressed forwards with my request in the hope that he would call upon hidden reserves of sobriety and focus on fixing my watch. Things didn’t get off to a great start however, when he started dropping his screwdrivers on the floor. I took the time to look around the shop, although museum would probably be a better word. The fading posters on the wall advertising long discontinued brands of shampoo, the bizarre frameless glasses from the 1950s steadily accumulating dust and the antique radio with its guts spilling out on the counter all added to a strong other worldly scenario. The T.V. in the corner played the same advert over and over (ever since the Earthquake many advertisers have pulled their commercials from T.V. leading to a hellish nightmare scenario where the same two or three adverts are repeated ad nauseum) and the steady ticking of the clocks started becoming mesmerising.

It was then that I realised that the room was not heavy with cigarette smoke, but with sleeping gas. Too late I realised I’d walked into a trap. Gasping for breath I collapsed on the floor, the watchmaker’s grinning, leering face looming over me was the last thing I saw before I lost consciousness. I awoke strapped to a chair in the watchmaker’s basement. Despite struggling, I couldn’t manage to loosen my bonds. The watchmaker eventually came in accompanied by two men dressed in sharp suits and proceeded to repeatedly ask me whether ‘it was safe’. Unsure of how to reply I hesitated, lost in confusion and fear. Unsatisfied by my lack of reply he started drilling through one of my teeth with a dentist drill. Anyway to cut a long story short, it all ended up with me forcing him to eat his Nazi diamonds at gunpoint.

Now unless I’m confusing the end of this story with a film starring Dustin Hoffman and Lawrence Olivier, my trip to the watchmaker turned out to be more eventful than I expected.

Thursday 24 March 2011

John Thomas' phantastic phallic phrenzy (or how I learnt to stop worrying and love the dong)

Last week I went to a very special festival near Komaki. This festival was the infamous Hounen Matsuri, or Penis festival. Taking the day off work (which, it being the end of the school year, was quite easy to do), I went with my girlfriend to get drunk and eat lots of phallic food. What better way is there to spend a cloudy Tuesday afternoon in mid-March?

I arrived at the station a little before noon looking smug as hell: not only did I not have to come into work today, but I was trying out something I'd always wanted to do since I heard about my placement in Aichi. The station was quite busy (not that you can see it here) and we were buzzing with anticipation.

The road to the shrine was covered in souvenier stands this is a picture of 'his and her's' rock candy lollipops. Unfortunatly, the vagina shaped candy was not made for sucking and broke in two at the slightest pressure. It seems like the patriarchy wins again.

The shrine itself was a fairly standard, if quite large, affair. Perhaps its most distinguishing features were the large number of phallic symbols in the shrine itself. Imagine your fairly typical Church of England church and replace the crucifix with a massive penis, the font with a wang and the organ with...well a different type of organ.

Festivals in Japan often feature bananas dipped in chocolate as a staple snack food. This being the penis festival, a couple of marshmallows were added, along with the tip of an extra banana. Contrary to popular belief the black ones were no bigger than the white ones.

Not just bananas, but hotdogs too. This particular sausage (as modeled by yours truly) was wrapped in a sort of batter and had a stick thrust in it. It was supposed to represent the portable shrine that houses the huge penis that is paraded down the street (more on this later). Naturally the sausage had been circumcised.


As we made our way towards the parade, we started encountering heavy crowds. After fighting our way through the massed revelers, we eventually found the procession at its [ahem] head was this fellow with the long nose. Supposedly the guardian of the shrine, his nose is suitably erect. The most surprising thing about him though is that no-one saw fit to add a couple of balls to the base of his long spear.

These women carried portable wooden penises. I don't really know what more I can add apart from that these would look pretty striking in the middle of your coffee table.

Next up in the parade was a flag of...well...you guessed it, another dick. This one was carried by what looked like members of the town's local council or business leaders: wealthy men in rich suits overlaid with gaudy waistcoats and carrying a huge flag with a picture of a cock on it. Somehow this says more about Japan than any guide book could.

This woman was a porn star, at least according to one of the onlookers who recognised her from her movies. All day she walked around in a pink kimono followed by a fat man with a massive camera. Occasionally she would pose with one of the sausages or bananas in a very suggestive fashion whilst her portly colleague would take pictures. Most of the time though she looked a little bored with the whole thing.

The portable shrine itself was a normal portable shrine with a massive penis rammed through the middle it took about twenty men to lift it and they could only do it for a couple of minutes before they had to lay it down and the next team took on their burden. Accompanying the shrine were men and women distributing seaweed and sake and as the procession drew on the sake got more and more generous. By the end most people were very drunk.
This man was one of many such drunks, and made it his mission to kiss me as deeply as he could. Unfortunately for him he did not succeed in kissing me at all. Eventually he stumbled away to talk to one of the police officers and we never saw him again... Other drunks just danced, like the sharply dressed man on the right who boogied on down wearing a strap-on dildo. In the gay future, when gay marriage is legal and all society will crumble leaving the earth to be roamed by nazis riding dinosaurs, this is what bus conductors will look like.

This was probably my favourite thing at the festival, not just for the very pornographic imagery, but because of the censorship. At a festival where they literally ram a giant penis through the doors of the waiting temple, it's still somewhat taboo to show actual sex acts. Even better is how they covered it up; with the cutest picture of Lilo kissing Stitch. I didn't buy it, as it was quite expensive, but I did buy a sake cup shaped like a penis with two matching cups shaped like a penis and a vagina. You have to suck the sake out of the head of the penis cup...


At the end of the day they threw rice cakes from the balcony of the shrine. As big as a fist and as hard as a rock the sky was suddenly filled with flying cakes. If you catch one, it's supposed to bring good luck, but I'm not sure if that's true, as I saw one middle-aged man catch one and almost immediately get hit by a second one, which broke his nose. Some people brought out buckets and baseball gloves which worked well. I was awful, a combination of not having played cricket in over five years (or baseball ever) and being too tall to get on my hands and knees to scramble around in the dirt for them. I did catch one, however, as I pounced on it before the old women could tear it out of my hands.

So that was that: The penis festival of Komaki. The only place you can see a higher concentration of dicks than Goldman Sachs.

Monday 14 March 2011

Earthquake

Despite this being an ostensibly humorous blog about wacky goings on in Japan, there is something I need to talk seriously about. As I’m sure you are aware there has been a very large Earthquake in Northern Japan, in which hundreds and probably thousands of people have lost their lives and many more have been displaced from their homes. Obviously with something so tragic I could not, nor would not want to make light of it, so for one night only I’m going to do a sincere and non-snarky update.

When the Earthquake hit I was in the middle of teaching a lesson of 13 year olds, my last class of the day and we were wrapping things up. That day I’d had four classes teaching together with the English teacher for the 1st years and, true to form, they were the dullest least interesting classes imaginable. Just as we were wrapping up the lesson I started feeling a little woozy, imagine being drunk or on a ship in choppy water, and you’ll know the feeling. It was only when one of the girls shouted out that it was an earthquake did we sprang into action (not immediately mind you, we dithered for a little bit.) Our friend the boring teacher suddenly became the hero telling everyone to duck under their desks and cover their heads with their hands like in one of those American Public Information movies about how to survive a nuclear blast. Having no desk myself I rather impotently squatted on the floor and covered my head with my hands all the while acknowledging the fact that I had absolutely no protection if the roof were to fall on my head. The woozy sensation went on for about a minute and a half which doesn’t seem very long, but it was almost a lifetime when you’re in the middle of an earthquake with absolutely no protection. After a little while most people had registered that the earthquake was harmless and despite scolding from Mr Boring, some of the kids started to emerge from under their desks.

When the earthquake had subsided all the kids were chatting excitedly and getting a bit bellicose. I ended the lesson abruptly and left the classroom. At that point the atmosphere was very jovial, kids were milling about in the corridors of the school, (the lesson having finished during the earthquake) and I was chatting excitedly about it being my first ‘proper’ earthquake – There was a very mild one back in the U.K. about three years ago. It was only when I returned to the teachers room when I realised that the earthquake was a lot more dangerous than I thought. As scenes of devastation flooded the TV screen in the teachers’ room it sunk home to me that what I had felt just now was but the very edge of the earthquake.

When I got home I stuck on the BBC and Al Jazeera coverage of the disaster and saw the images of people trying (and failing) to drive away from an incoming wave of toxic black water. I saw the images of cars being swept off bridges; of fishing trawlers floating down streets; of the roof of the local airport collapsing whilst terrified travellers cowered in alcoves. In the mean time I kept trying to phone my girlfriend to try and make sure she was alright, but the earthquake had caused all the service on the mobile phone networks to go down so I couldn’t phone or text anyone. I tried to keep my spirits up by being flippant about it, but as I saw images of people frantically trying to flag down rescue helicopters from their semi-submerged houses on the TV, I knew even that couldn’t help.

In the end though I turned off the foreign news and turned back to domestic coverage and realised something. Although the Japanese news broadcast was horrendously low budget and they used the same tone of voice for describing the 9.0 magnitude earthquake as they did with the opening of a new sushi restaurant which substitutes the fish for fruit and the rice for marshmallows, it was infinitely preferable to the foreign coverage. It seems that in the wake of the Haiti earthquake last year, journalists have started falling over themselves to portray natural disasters in the most sensationalist light possible. The above images I described were shown both on foreign and Japanese news broadcast where on the BBC they were accompanied by frantic telephone messages with correspondents whereas on NHK they were presented as background images to the communication of dry facts about the damage. The tone on NHK and all of the channels in Japan was very much one of subdued concern whereas on the BBC, CNN and everywhere else it was one hyperbolic emotion.

Perhaps it is wise for journalists back home to not confuse conveying the human angle to a story with outright fear-mongering. Case in point; after the tsunami hit the Japanese government noted that there were some problems with the nuclear reactors in Fukushima. When these were later revealed to be explosions at the plants MSNBC and everyone else went ballistic printing titles such as JAPANESE WORKERS FRANTICALLY TO CONTAIN NUCLEAR DISASTER and TENS OF THOUSANDS FLEE AS JAPAN'S NUCLEAR CRISIS INTENSIFIES. For the outside watcher it would seem as if the power plants were facing a Chernobyl-style meltdown and millions of people are to be affected by radiation poisoning. The articles themselves contain very little besides outright fear-mongering and out of context quotes from officials and anti-nuclear campaigners who have a vested interest in making nuclear power look as dangerous as possible. In reality, the worst the meltdowns are predicted to be is a level 4 meltdown, which is a partial meltdown. To put it into context; Chernobyl was a level 7 meltdown (the worst nuclear accident) and Three Mile Island was a level 5 partial meltdown. Whilst a level 4 partial meltdown is an extremely serious affair and poses a major health hazard to those in the immediate vicinity, throwing around terms like ‘apocalyptic’ is entirely disingenuous.


Misrepresenting the severity of a natural disaster in order to increase ratings and market share is very dangerous indeed, not only does it fictionalise the event but it undermines the messages of hope we find in the tragedy. To be sober about the reality of the situation isn't to be stone-hearted or stoic in the face of unprecedented human suffering, but by sensationalising the coverage of the disaster the media risks portraying the rescue efforts as exercises in futility rather than as the heroic acts of selflessness that they are.
People in Japan are going back to their daily lives after the disaster. Whilst things will probably never be quite the same again in places like Sendai, the Tohoku region is not going to turn into the Japanese ‘Fallout: New Vegas’ (although if it were it would probably feature AKB 48 endlessly repeating over the radio rather than Frank Sinatra). People are picking up the pieces of their shattered lives and I implore you to donate (if only a little) to the Japanese Red Cross, ease the suffering of those who are affected the worst. Whilst there is real tragedy, please try and keep the salient facts of the situation in mind and when a newspaper or TV report suggest that Armageddon is around the corner, try to think critically about it. The victims of the earthquake deserve better than to have their plight sensationalised and politicised to the degree that it is. The next few months will be hard for the people of Miyagi, Iwate and Fukushima prefectures but if we all keep calm and rational we can help them a lot more effectively than if we freak out.

Next time: Back to the regularly scheduled programming.

Sunday 27 February 2011

Let's make Tim Buckley funny!


In Japan the school year starts and ends in April. Since exams for the third years in my junior high school finished a few weeks ago and graduation is still a couple of weeks of there's a dead space where the teachers can relax and not have to worry about following a curriculum. Some foreign teachers show movies or T.V. shows like the Simpsons to their kids and others just play games all day. One increasingly popular option is for teachers to give the kids comics with all the words removed so that they can write their own. This gives them an opportunity to use English creatively, express themselves through a familiar medium and all that other high-minded jargon that is written in the plethora of teaching handbooks. So, I tried this with my pupils and whilst not all of them wrote in English those that did produced amazing results. I used three of my favourite comics (plus one I can't stand) for them to fill in. So I hope you read these comics and laugh at their use of non-sequiturs, puns and abstract comedy rather than at their lack of finesse in the English language.

The Manga - Yotsubato 


Original - http://koiwai.biz/eng/v9/ch59/59_28_png.htm


http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/9070/whyrl.jpg
http://img268.imageshack.us/i/notonthevocablist.jpg/
http://img69.imageshack.us/i/handmedown.jpg/
http://img189.imageshack.us/i/deathofateddy.jpg/
http://img163.imageshack.us/i/communalbathing.jpg/
http://img36.imageshack.us/i/anatomyofcute.jpg/


The webcomic - The Perry Bible fellowship

Original -  http://www.pbfcomics.com/?cid=PBF032-Todays_My_Birthday.gif

http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/5642/toolate.jpg
http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/441/sredpen.
http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/8559/salarym
http://img844.imageshack.us/i/raidenn.jpg/
http://img193.imageshack.us/i/organharvesting.jpg/
http://img577.imageshack.us/i/imperitiveform.jpg/
http://img191.imageshack.us/i/exclamation.jpg/
http://img835.imageshack.us/i/dairyworker.jpg/
http://img827.imageshack.us/i/clairvoyance.jpg/

The newspaper funny - Calvin and Hobbes

Original - http://bdcentral.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/cartoons_calvin_and_hobbes_chocolate_frosted_sugar_bombs_01_sweet1000x333x256.gif

http://img687.imageshack.us/i/heypr.jpg/
http://img141.imageshack.us/i/hellocornflakes.jpg/
http://img222.imageshack.us/i/endofapartnership.jpg/
http://img840.imageshack.us/i/dayatthebeach.jpg/
http://img135.imageshack.us/i/calvinthekiller2.jpg/
http://img30.imageshack.us/i/calvinthekiller.jpg/
http://img195.imageshack.us/i/bigmistake.jpg/

The other webcomic - Ctrl alt Del

Original -  http://www.cad-comic.com/cad/20110121 (warning: as with all Ctrl Alt Del comics it is not funny in the slightest)

http://img839.imageshack.us/i/yakuzas.jpg/
http://img600.imageshack.us/i/sevitude.jpg/
http://img34.imageshack.us/i/personalitychangingdevi.jpg/
http://img835.imageshack.us/i/oikobayashi.jpg/
http://img713.imageshack.us/i/katurameanswig.jpg/
http://img402.imageshack.us/i/illfittingclothes.jpg/
http://img819.imageshack.us/i/hardgay.jpg/
http://img840.imageshack.us/i/gottinhimmel.jpg/
http://img88.imageshack.us/i/ethantheoracle.jpg/
http://img19.imageshack.us/i/emoyj.jpg/
http://img52.imageshack.us/i/differenceintaste.jpg/
http://img810.imageshack.us/i/beards.jpg/
http://img573.imageshack.us/i/badlanguage.jpg/

Bonus

http://img827.imageshack.us/i/img0661c.jpg/

Friday 4 February 2011

Anata Dai-ski

Ah, Skiing; the sport of kings! Well, not kings so much as middle aged professional couples called Oliver and Imogen who “just thought they’d pop down to Geneva for a mini-break with the kids.” Lacking any pistes ourselves in the UK, if we want to indulge our impulses to hurtle down a mountain wearing a couple of planks of not-wood and wear more clothes than you ever have in your life, you have to travel to Europe, or if you’re even more hoity-toity – America; spending vast amounts of money on planes, hotels, food etc. Skiing is not the sort of thing you can do if you’ve just been laid off, or you owe the mafia a lot of money or you recently became a Scientologist and really, really want to purge your body of Thetans. ‘It’s quite expensive’ I suppose is what I’m trying to say.

I’ve only ever been skiing a couple of times, both times with my school; the latter one being particularly memorable for being the first time I ever bought a beer in a bar as well as the first time I ever had to carry a friend in a drunken stupor home. Since my town is only a couple of hours away from the ski slopes I joined my friend and his daughter on a two day round trip. After arriving, and putting on my ski boots, skis and goggles coloured to look like the spectrum of light you see in a puddle of petrol, I got on the lift and proceeded to half way up the mountain, whereupon I immediately fell over, ripping a hole in the crotch of my brand new trousers.

I should probably inform you, dear reader, that I was not wearing anything underneath my ski trousers bar a single pair of boxer shorts. It was 10am on the first day of a two day trip. I was faced with the prospect of spending the best part of two days at the top of a mountain amidst quite heavy snow with nothing between the elements and those parts of a man’s body he treasures the most, but the thinnest of fabrics. I found that in general, I didn’t feel the cold going down (friction is a wonderful thing), but going up was sometimes tortuous, especially in the snow. If you want a vision of that time, imagine a man shovelling ice cubes into your underpants – forever. The worst thing is, there’s nothing you can do to stop it, you just have to sit and take it like a man, or whatever you are after the frostbite robs you of your manhood, since you can’t cross your legs. As the day wore on, (and the occasional stumbles, missteps and full-blown crashes tallied up,) the hole became bigger and bigger. The only respite was when I walked back inside the hulking, brutalist ski lodge for food and beer; the latter being especially welcome.

After a full day of subjecting my genitals to torture a Guantanamo Bay prison guard would balk at, I headed for the small Japanese style bed a breakfast to soothe my weary body in a hot bath. So, dressed in a slightly ill-fitting yukata that my pitying hostess had loaned me, I joined the middle-aged men for a drink around the small wood burner in the middle of the foyer. These must have been the only middle-aged men at the entire resort, as winter sports in Japan are primarily a young persons’ activity. Also, no-one skis; everyone snowboards. At one point in the evening one of the older men made his excuses and made to go to bed, at which point my friend suggested that he fetch his daughter since I was (at that time) a single man and his daughter was an attractive university student. To my endless surprise, he agreed, rather readily in fact, and he went upstairs to wake up his daughter, for the sole purpose of talking the night away with a complete stranger.

As the night wore on and we continued drinking, huddled around the portable wood burner, it emerged that the daughter (henceforth referred to as Mika) had had a falling-out with her father. In fact, they were on such bad terms that they refused to even sleep in the same room as one another, with a moment’s hesitation my friend offered her a spare futon in our room, to which she happily agreed. I was quite happy, as the two of us got on quite well, so after a bit more drinking, we went to bed; the four of us in one room. As Mika and my friend’s daughter chatted about ghost stories and T.V. programmes, I drifted off to sleep. It was only a few hours later that I awoke to sound of Mika vigorously masturbating in the futon beside me. I suppose on reflection she could have just been moaning in her sleep, but at 2am after a day of strenuous physical activity, the thought didn’t cross my tired mind. Needless to say, I was a little too embarrassed to make much in the way of eye-contact with Mika the next morning, and soon after breakfast we went our separate ways; she to return to Skikoku with her hated father, and I to pack more snow around my testicles.

Later that day as I sat in the outdoor onsen, snow gently falling on my head, I reflected on my experiences on the Japanese ski slopes. If there were two things I’d learnt, it was; to wear earplugs when sleeping in ski lodges and never to buy ski trousers that cost 1500 yen and are two sizes too small.

Tuesday 1 February 2011

With apologies to Edward Said

Apologies to my readers (both of you) for not updating for such a long time, but a busy Christmas holiday coupled with sheer apathy and laziness stood in my way. Well, now I’m back and will resume my usual schedule of snobbish orientalism. Today, let’s talk about Christmas and, being as it’s the first day of February, we find ourselves in a position of detached analysis. Perhaps, we can look back on that most sacred of festivals and reflect on what it means in a culture that is largely agnostic, where the holiday is stripped of most of its religious and traditional connotations and reduced to merely its most commercial aspects. Most likely though, we’ll all stare and go “ooooooh isn’t Japan wierd?!?”

Christmas in Japan is not Christian; somewhat of a confusing state of affairs considering Jesus’ name is right there in the name of the holiday. I for one welcome this development, all throughout my childhood and adolescence I was subjected to many angry column inches in right wing bastions of bitterness like the Daily Mail about the so-called “War on Christmas.” The conspiracy goes that left-wing bureaucrats and petty politicians are conspiring to kill Christmas out of a mixture of spite, political correctness and wanting to be the Grinch from that Dr. Seuss book. Those columnists painted a picture of a terrifying brave new world in which there was to be no mention of anything vaguely related to Christianity or traditional Christmas activities lest it offend the sensibilities of religious minorities. I always thought this was a ludicrous fantasy, “No way would there be a Christmas entirely divorced from its original meaning” I thought smugly to myself. But I was wrong. It exists, and it’s wearing a kimono.

The Japanese Christmas curiously enough is actually dating season. If you were to walk down Central gardens, or any of Nagoya’s other romantic hotspots on Christmas Eve, the place would be packed with young couples holding hands and making hushed conversation under the glow of the ‘irumineeshon’ (Christmas lights.) I have to admit, dear reader, that I followed suit and arranged a date for Christmas day – “When in Rome...” as the saying goes. I understand that the early sunsets and the plethora of Christmas decorations help to create a romantic atmosphere, but I’m still a little confused as to why it is that the Birth of Santa (or whatever Christmas is about) acts as an aphrodisiac to Japanese women. Maybe it’s the beard...

As I mentioned in my Junk food post, Christmas is the time for KFC. I was a little sceptical about how true this claim was when someone first told me, but seeing the queue outside of the Nagoya branches of KFC stretch around the block quashed any suspicions I had. In fact, if you want to eat at KFC on Christmas Day, you have to make a reservation weeks in advance and wait for hours just to get a seat (think using British rail services). I for one didn’t go to KFC, but I did get some KFC style chicken from a cafe, (which was also crowded) where it came wrapped in two slices of bread and served with some lettuce. Yes, it was a KFC sandwich.

Now I think about it maybe Japanese Christmas isn’t all that different from Western ones - a lot of time spent with loved ones (or even people you’d rather not see again) and a tradition of consuming food that’s not very good for you. The Japanese still give and receive Christmas presents, though, like in the West, it’s mainly for the kids and I’m sure if you flicked trough enough channels on T.V. you could probably find a batty old woman, giving a dull monologue that bores you to tears, which could fit your Queen’s speech needs. So, Merry Christmas from over a month ago, perhaps in June I can get around to wishing you a happy New Year as well.